In line with my pathetic map, I ought to have been near the royal palace. However nothing in Casablanca’s bustling Mers Sultan quarter, the place trams rumble previous shoe shops and cafes, seemed remotely palatial. I attempted one avenue, then the subsequent. Lastly, I approached some teenage ladies in denims and head scarves downing Food regimen Cokes exterior a snack bar.
“I’m in search of the palace,” I mentioned in rudimentary French, and pointed to my map. “It says it must be close to right here.”
One of many ladies glanced on the creased sheet of paper, and in a voice laden with teenage contempt, requested, “Don’t you will have a telephone?”
No, I didn’t have a telephone. Or somewhat, I did, however I wasn’t utilizing it.
Besides for getting my airplane ticket, my plan was to discover Casablanca — a Moroccan metropolis I had by no means visited — with out utilizing the web. That meant no on-line analysis, no GPS, no Ubers or Airbnbs, no digital dictionary and no senseless scrolling to keep away from social awkwardness.
At a time when increasingly of us are feeling the necessity for a digital detox, I’m keenly conscious of how the web, for all its advantages, has additionally modified journey for the more severe. Not solely does it play a key position in overtourism, nevertheless it has additionally flattened the sense of discovery. By permitting us to peruse restaurant menus, visualize websites and compile must-see lists, the web tells us what we are going to expertise earlier than we arrive.
I may have used a guidebook, however that appeared opposite to the spirit of the endeavor. In spite of everything, my foremost objective was to see if I would restore the serendipity of exploring — and study just a few retro journey classes alongside the way in which.
Lesson 1: Get a Good Map
After flying into Casablanca’s Mohammed V Airport, my first order of enterprise was to find a map. I approached a girl seated at what I took to be the data desk. “After all I’ve a map,” she replied. “I’ve a telephone.”
She did, nevertheless, direct me towards the prepare to town middle. Once I arrived on the ethereal station, I understood how troublesome touring unplugged right here may be. There have been no “You’re right here” signposts, no place to stash my baggage whereas I obtained oriented and no clear indications — not less than to not this non-Arabic reader — of which path led to town middle.
Nonetheless mapless, I picked a path and began strolling. A palm-lined boulevard appeared like a very good guess, and shortly I used to be amid retailers and eating places. Past a gate into what I took to be the previous medina, I noticed a hand-painted signal: “Ryad 91.”
Lesson 2: Ask to See a Room
I knew from earlier journeys to different Moroccan cities that “ryad” or “riad” means “inn.” Quickly Mohammed, a tall, bespectacled man, was welcoming me within the cushion-bedecked foyer, and didn’t appear offended after I requested to see the only real remaining room, a discount at 360 dirhams, or about $37. It was easy and clear, however a bit of claustrophobic, with a window that opened onto an inside courtyard. I took the room, deciding I’d search for one thing extra spacious the subsequent day.
Within the meantime, I requested Mohammed for a map. “One minute,” he mentioned, sitting down at his pc and printing one out from Google. A few dozen streets on it bore names; the remaining was a tangle of traces.
Lesson 3: Embrace Your Ignorance
The advantage of ignorance is that it will possibly flip every thing right into a discovery. And there was lots that fascinated me alongside Casablanca’s winding alleyways: swish minarets; bakers pulling sizzling, flat loaves from open-air ovens; the splash of avenue artwork, vivid towards the whitewashed partitions that gave Casablanca its title.
My wanderings started exterior the inn’s door. Preserving the harbor to the precise, I meandered westward, by the raucous meals market, the place distributors offered fats walnuts from carts, and leafy squares the place males sat at low tables consuming fried-fish sandwiches. Strolling alongside bastions constructed when Portugal dominated the harbor, I noticed a large construction. I requested some boys who have been diving into the ocean from a rocky seaside what it was. “C’est la plus grande mosquée du monde” was the reply.
Had I actually simply stumbled throughout the most important mosque on this planet? Alas, my informants weren’t fully dependable. The Hassan II Mosque could have one of many world’s largest minarets, however just isn’t itself the most important. And because the tour buses across the nook proved, it’s Casablanca’s chief attraction.
I may see why the boys exaggerated; with a capability for 25,000 individuals, the mosque is designed to awe, and never solely with its measurement. Each centimeter is roofed in intricate craftsmanship, from plasterwork to mosaics to fretwork. On the accompanying museum, I discovered it had taken 12,000 artisans to finish.
My strolls introduced extra discoveries: downtown streets lined with Artwork Deco buildings; modern Moroccan artwork on the elegant Villa des Arts; the Abderrahman Slaoui museum, with its Berber jewellery and colonial-era journey posters.
Touring with out expectations additionally makes you extra observant of abnormal life. I cherished coming throughout a person in a sq. promoting espresso from a small pot, and the housewares retailer the place frantic girls in djellabas scrambled to get their fingers on air fryers that had simply gone on sale, some carting off three or 4.
Casablanca wasn’t preening for vacationers; it was too busy dwelling its personal life.
Lesson 4: Let Go of FOMO
I discovered my second lodge on a avenue of bougainvillea-draped villas. The rooms at the Doge (about 2,200 dirham), as soon as a non-public dwelling, leaned arduous into their Jazz Age origins, with velvet-lined partitions and not less than one Josephine Baker photograph. Staying there, amid the inlaid furnishings and orange-blossom-scented soaps, I attempted not to wonder if there was even a extra beautiful Casablanca lodge I hadn’t discovered.
Touring unplugged means letting go of the worry of lacking out. The web can persuade us that its best-of lists are goal truths and that any traveler who doesn’t work her manner by them has settled for much less.
I needed to battle a twinge on the Central Market, the place dozens of seafood stalls served contemporary oysters and fish tagines. How to decide on? I settled on Nadia’s due to the native businessmen there. Had been the juicy grilled sardines drizzled with pungent chermoula sauce there the very best out there? They have been the very best I ate.
The identical held true for the peerlessly spiced rooster shawarma I sampled within the upscale Racine neighborhood, and the fragile gazelle horn pastries at a bakery within the Gauthier quarter — locations I had chosen as a result of they have been busy with native clients.
However that technique didn’t work in my quest for a sit-down restaurant serving conventional Moroccan meals, since native diners usually select a delicacies totally different from the one they get at dwelling. So after I walked into Le Cuistot’s tiled eating room, and heard Castilian Spanish, British English and New Jersey accents, I didn’t have excessive hopes.
However my couscous tfaya was fluffy, the greens flavorful, and the caramelized onions and almonds added simply the precise sweetness and crunch. When Aziz Berrada, the chef and proprietor, informed me his couscous was the very best in Casablanca, I believed him.
In that case, it was simply considered one of his skills. Earlier than Aziz turned a chef, he informed me, he had been a photographer for Hassan II, the identical monarch who had ordered the development of the imposing mosque. When that monarch died, Aziz determined it was time for a profession change.
Lesson 5: Discuss to Individuals
My dialog with Aziz — which wouldn’t have occurred if I had been buried in my telephone whereas eating — made me wanting to see the palace the place he had labored. So on my final day, the receptionist on the Doge printed out yet one more Google map.
That’s after I obtained misplaced. After getting no assist from the soda-drinking youngsters, I wandered for blocks, ultimately asking instructions from an older man who pointed to pink flags within the distance: the palace.
Solely it wasn’t open to the general public. Ever, apparently.
The web would have revealed this. But as I grappled with the belief that I had spent hours to succeed in these impenetrable partitions, I spied a avenue lined with bookshops. On the very least, I assumed, I would discover a first rate map.
And I did. However the avenue additionally led to retailers promoting handwoven rugs and copper tea units, a courtyard full of barrels of olives and a warren of whitewashed alleys that jogged my memory of Andalusia even earlier than I got here throughout a tiny museum of Andalusian devices.
The Habous neighborhood nearly seemed like a stage set of Morocco, which is becoming, because it was designed by the French within the Twenties and ’30s.
I discovered this from a girl who launched herself as Imane, after I stopped for mint tea on the Imperial Café. She was seated close to me, and seemed to be both a star or the mayor, so frequent have been the salutations from passers-by. I requested if I may discuss together with her concerning the neighborhood.
“After all, sweetheart,” she mentioned in excellent English. “I really like People. You’re so spontaneous.”
Lesson 6: Keep Open
Imane instructed we transfer our dialog to a close-by location that she promised I’d adore. I overcame my skepticism, figuring I would get some native suggestions.
As we walked, Imane’s rapid-fire monologue left little room to ask about her favourite eating places. However I discovered that she had as soon as lived in the US, promoting actual property, working for a jewellery firm and driving an Uber.
Lastly we arrived at a set of partitions solely marginally much less imposing than the palace’s. The guard ushered us by a carved door into a stunning constructing, with partitions of inexperienced and blue geometric tiles and complicated plasterwork, and courtyards dotted with orange bushes. I nonetheless had no concept the place I used to be (later I discovered it was a former courthouse and residence for the pasha, and is now used for cultural occasions). And I used to be mystified by the employees, together with a stern-faced bureaucrat and a cleansing girl who greeted Imane effusively.
Who was Imane? A politician? A film star?
Lastly, it dawned on me. “Are you an influencer?” I requested.
“I don’t like labels,” she replied.
I by no means did study Imane’s favourite eating places. However she informed me of her mission to unfold the message that we’re all linked. Ultimately, she pulled out her telephone to broadcast us, stay, as we chatted.
I had come all this manner with out my telephone. I had gotten misplaced and located my manner, found monuments and tiny jewels. I had developed a way of town as a spot that also existed primarily for its residents, not its guests.
And there I used to be on another person’s stay social media feed.
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