‘It’s just thrown away but it’s gold’

Zeeshan Ali has been a drag artist for 10 years and has taken his present throughout India.

Central to his efficiency is a group of round 45 wigs.

“It’s an alter of identification, serving to me transition from my on a regular basis self into exaggerated, glamorous or whimsical characters. The appropriate wig makes me really feel extra genuine and empowers me to command the stage,” says Ali, who relies in Mumbai.

However getting that look proper wasn’t straightforward within the early days.

“After I began my profession the accessibility of the wigs was extraordinarily tough in India. Most of them had been to be sourced from overseas or I used to make wigs sourced from no matter was obtainable to me like wool, cloth,” he says.

However issues are completely different now.

“The pattern is altering. Wigs are not simply meant for drag or film artists, however many straight ladies put on wigs to look completely different. It is not only a hair accent however a method assertion.”

Indian hair has all the time been in demand for wig-making. The nation is the world’s greatest exporter of human hair, supplying 85% of worldwide demand.

Kolachi Venkatesh, based mostly in Avadi, Chennai, has been gathering hair for 20 years. He began on the backside of the business as a picker – gathering hair from households and rescuing it from the garbage.

“My mother and father had been hair pickers after which I began doing the identical,” he says.

Hair collected by pickers from houses, salons and barbershops is named non-Remy hair.

It requires extra processing than Remy hair, which is rigorously shaved straight from the scalp. However, it has worth.

“It’s simply thrown away nevertheless it’s gold,” says Mr Venkatesh.

These pickers sometimes promote hair to native merchants like Mr Venkatesh for between 10 cents and $1 (£0.80) per kilogram, relying on the standard and size of the hair.

Shorter or broken hair fetches much less, whereas longer strands carry larger costs.

For the person picker, there’s not a lot cash in it.

“A diligent collector would possibly collect 1–5 kilograms of hair in a day, incomes anyplace from 59 cents to $6 per day. This revenue degree is commonly under minimal wage requirements, notably in rural areas,” says Mr Venkatesh, who has 50 pickers working for him.

“Whereas our work contributes to a billion-dollar world market our earnings stay meagre. Intermediaries management costs.”

A lot of the Indian hair collected by merchants like Mr Venkatesh is exported to China the place it’s made into wigs.

“China has an enormous wigmaking business which is price 5 to 6 billion {dollars},” says Benjamin Cherian from Plexconcil, the hair business physique that promotes the Indian business and liaises with the federal government.

If India needs a slice of the profitable wig market, he says, then it has numerous catching as much as do.

“Once we have a look at China there are lots of of factories unfold throughout the nation which add worth to the hair business, whereas in India the worth addition nonetheless must be picked up,” Mr Cherian says.

He says the federal government wants to assist promote funding within the hair business.

“It wants automated sorting methods, refined hair therapy procedures for the hair collected, progressive manufacturing methods for manufacturing of wigs which can make India stand out.”

As an alternative of exporting hair for lots of of {dollars}, India must be promoting wigs price hundreds of {dollars} says Mr Cherian.

“We’ve got began engaged on it nevertheless it’s a protracted method to go. We have to have analysis and coaching centres,” he says.

One Indian enterprise making an attempt to make inroads is Delhi-based Diva Divine Hair, co-founded by Krishan Jalani in 2019.

It’s at present managed by chief govt and co-founder Nidhi Tiwari.

The thought was to create high-quality hair extensions and wigs that will attraction to a broader vary of shoppers.

“There’s a rising want for these options as a consequence of rising problems with hair loss and thinning amongst ladies in India,” says Ms Tiwari.

The corporate has been helped by a shift in perspective.

“As soon as thought of a distinct segment or taboo matter, wigs and extensions are actually brazenly mentioned, because of evolving social norms and a shift towards acceptance,” she says.

Wigs have additionally seen numerous growth making them extra enticing and cozy.

“Applied sciences equivalent to 3D-printed wigs and digital colour-matching instruments supply extremely personalised choices. Light-weight, breathable wig caps and improved adhesives have given clients to put on it for very long time with out discomfort,” says Ms Tiwari.

On the high finish of the hair market is Temple or Remy hair.

A lot of the provision comes from Hindu temples within the south of the nation the place hair is shaved off in an act of veneration and religion.

Raj Hair Worldwide is among the greatest merchants within the Temple hair enterprise.

Craftsmen on the firm’s Chennai manufacturing facility kind and grade the hair in accordance with color, texture and size.

“Remy hair has aligned cuticles, hair flows uniformly in a single path, which results in much less tangling and a silkier texture. That is high-value hair,” says George Cherion, the corporate’s chief govt.

The agency tries to waste as little of the hair as doable. To assist with that it developed a machine to untangle the hair. It is allowed them to work sooner with fewer workers.

“Our mission is to always improve the know-how,” says Mr Cherion.

Enterprise is booming.

“Indian human is in demand globally as a consequence of its top quality, pure look, and thinness. The demand is skyrocketing,” he says.

Again in Mumbai Zeeshan Ali needs to see extra Indian wigs available on the market.

In addition to making them extra inexpensive, he has a design suggestion: “A wig that may create a wow issue.”